Jenkins Canyon trail junction along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail
The Jenkins Canyon trail junctionoffers significant route choices.
Both Long and Short distance backpackers have lots of options
Long Distance Tahoe to Yosemite Trail Hikers
Long distance backpackers Southbound on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail will turn Right to continue South through Jenkins Canyon.
If you are not interested in the following discussion about hiking loops or the alternative long-distance route options at the Jenkins Canyon trail junction, skip to the trail guide's continuing description of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail up Jenkins Canyon below.
Medium and Long distance Loops in the Carson Iceberg Wilderness
Lake Alpine on Highway 4 to Highland Lakes and/or the Pacific Crest Trail
Medium and long distance backpackers hiking local loops or trail segments out of Lake Alpine can continue straight through the Jenkins Canyon trail junction to hike Highland Creek up to the dirt road accessing the Highland Lakes as the end-point of their point to point backpacking trips from the Silver Valley Trail head.
It is 17.84 miles from the Silver Valley Trail head to the Highland Lakes Trailhead. Or, from Highland Lakes you can easily hike the 3.72 miles Northeast over to the Pacific Crest Trail at Wolf Creek Pass through the Gardner Meadow Trailhead.
It is 21.11 miles from the Silver Valley Trailhead along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail at Lake Alpine to the Wolf Creek Pass trail junction on the Pacific Crest Trail. From Wolf Creek Pass your options expand further.
Wolf Creek Pass trail junction is 7.02 miles South of Ebbetts Pass.
Wolf Creek Pass trail junction is 22.42 miles North of Sonora Pass.
The North side of the Arnot and Disaster Creek Trails
The Northern end of both the Arnot and Disaster Creek trails coming up from the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River (their Clarks Fork Road trailheads are depicted on this page below) connect with the trail running between the Gardner Meadow Trailhead and the Pacific Crest Trail at Wolf Creek Pass.
Hikers starting from the Highway 4 trailheads or trailheads along the Clarks Fork Road & Highway 108 can craft great medium distance backpacking loops out of and back to their respective trailhead using the Highland, Arnot, Disaster, or Boulder Creek trails which each connect the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail to the Pacific Crest Trail along the length of their routes across the Carson Iceberg Wilderness.
Loops around the Southern end of the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness can beextended by starting or threading the Southern end of your loop through Sonora Pass and Saint Marys Pass. This is your Southernmost turn-around point for Carson Iceberg Wilderness backpacking loops.
The same approach applies to hikers starting their backpacking trips from the Highway 4 trailheads. Backpacking loops starting from Highway 4 out of Lake Alpine, Highland Lakes, or Ebbetts Pass can use these same four connecting trails to craft great loops using the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trails around the heart of the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness, back to your Highway 4 trailhead.
Getting Started
Plan a trip out of one of these Carson Iceberg Wilderness trailheads that accesses either the PCT or TYT. Hike your selected trail up or down the PCT or TYT to the connector trail you are planning on using to hike to the other trail, where you will turn to hike in the direction of your trailhead.
For instance, if you started hiking South on the TYT your connector trail will bring you to the PCT for the Northbound return leg of your hike. Your second connector trail will bring you back to the TYT, and back to your original trailhead. Or visa-versa, depending on your trailhead.
Use either the PCT or the TYT to hike out from your selected trailhead, then use the other to return. Deciding which trails you will use to connect the out and in trails will determine the length of your backpacking loop around the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.
The longest loop you can make by starting at either end, Highway 4 or 108, and hiking a loop using the PCT and TYT to hike around the other end is just short of 80 miles. The shortest loop would be the Arnot-Disaster "loop" at 18.3 miles. The highest loop you can do with the shortest mileage is the Sonora Pass-to-Boulder Lake-to-Saint Marys Pass loop, which measures out and 23 miles. The Arnot-Disaster Creek loop's 18.3 miles includes 4.17 miles of hiking along the Clarks Fork Road between the Arnot and Disaster Creek Trailheads.
This really big topo map may give you more context on your Carson-Iceberg backpacking trip options.
Where you are on this Trail Guide
The page below depicts the SouthboundTahoe to Yosemite Trail from the Jenkins Canyon trail junction alongside Highland Creek over into the Arnot Creek valley and out of the Arnot Creek Trailhead onto the paved Clarks Fork Road off of Highway 108. We hike 4.17 miles upstream on the Clarks Fork Road to where the Disaster Creek and Clarks Fork Trailheads are located at the end of the Clarks Ford Road.
We re-enter wilderness through the Clarks Fork Trailhead and hike up to Southernmost of our connector trails, the Boulder Lake trail junction, located 2.56 miles South of the Clarks Fork Trailhead.
From the Boulder Lake trail junction this trail guide continues South along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail, but also covers the connecting trail up to the Pacific Crest Trail.
This page of the trail guide covers the Southern Side of all four of the trails connecting the Tahoe to Yosemite to the Pacific Crest Trail across the Carson Iceberg Wilderness. As mentioned above these are the Highland, Arnot, Disaster, and Boulder Creek Trails.
Above, along the top of this page your will find links to the trail guide pages with the information you need to plan out backpacking trips from the Silver Valley Trailhead up the Highland Creek Trail to Highland Lakes, and on to the Pacific Crest Trail at Wolf Creek Pass. Each page of the guide links to the topo hiking maps, miles and elevations, and the related trail guide pages for that particular section of the trail.
From Highland Lakes you have the option of hiking South on either the Arnot or Disaster Creek trails from their Northernmost mutual termination point between Gardner Meadow and Wolf Creek Pass, down to their trailheads (below) along the Clarks Fork Road, and then hiking the other trail back up to Highland Lakes.
How Many Loops?
When I get the chance I'm going to find a mathematician to figure out the number of loops we can craft out of the 8 trailheads, two main trails, and four connector trails that characterize the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trail routes across the Carson Iceberg Wilderness. I live next to UC Berkeley, and have had a few math whiz kids as pals over the decades I've been here.
If you can set up and work out this equation, shoot me an email.
Many fine loops from all compass points
Independent of where you start your backpacking or even a nice day hiking trip from, from either the Highway 4 corridor or the Highway 108 corridor, you have a lot of excellent hiking loop options in the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.
Check out this Trip Report of a fifty-mile Carson Iceberg Loop. Another way into this maze of trails is from the East, through the remote Corral Valley Trailhead situated on historic Rodriguez Flat at 8000 feet off of Highway 395. Access is just North of the town of Walker, about 17 miles North of the junction between Highways 108 and 395.
Highland Lakes and the Clarks Fork Road are well connected to each other by two excellent trails, the Arnot and Disaster Creek trails. The Highland Creek route down to the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail is a bit North of the Clarks Fork Road, while the Boulder Lake trail junction is a bit South of the Clarks Fork Road.
There are loops to suit a wide range of fitness and experience levels.
The Boulder Lake trail and the Disaster Creek trail connector East up to Golden Canyon link the Southern section of Pacific Crest Trail in the Carson Iceberg Wilderness to the Tahoe to Yosemite trailheads at the top of the Clarks Fork Road.
These trails, when combined with segments along the PCT and TYT offer you a wide variety of loops of different lengths and characteristics that put you into the heart of one of my favorite parts of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the East Fork of the Carson River from Murray Canyon to Sonora Pass.
The Northern turnaround point for hikers out of the Boulder Lake and Disaster Creek trails is Wolf Creek Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail.
At Wolf Creek Pass you have excellent hiking options. You can continue 7 miles North to Ebbetts Passor turn South to hike 22.42 miles to Sonora Pass along the Pacific Crest Trail route. You can hike over to access Highland Creek down to the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail via Gardner Meadow. Or, you can loop back down towards the Clarks Fork Road along the Arnot or Disaster Creek trails. Or, you can head South on the PCT down to access the Disaster Creek Trail down to the TYT on the Clarks Fork from Golden Canyon. Or, you can continue South along the PCT down to the Boulder Lake trail junction.
The Boulder Lake trail is the shortest trail from the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail along the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River to the Pacific Crest Trail above the East Fork of the Carson River. The Boulder Lake trail junction is just a few miles South of the Clarks Fork Trailhead at the end of Clarks Fork Road.
The longest Southbound loops from the trailheads along Highway 4 at Lake Alpine, Highland Lakes, or Ebbetts Pass are crafted by pushing the Southbound extent of your PCT hike all the way down to Sonora Pass on Highway 108, then turning North to return on the TYT through Saint Marys Pass Trailhead. These loops work out to just short of 80 miles.
Alternatively, the longest Northbound backpacking loops out of the Sonora or Saint Marys Pass trailheads on Highway 108 would use the Northernmost connector trail between the TYT and PCT, the Highland Creek Trail, as the trail connecting their Northbound route with their Southern turnaround point. This works out to a 56.41 mile loop.
Both sides are Good
In fact, great hiking loops using the TYT and PCT can be started out of any of the Highway 108 & Clarks Fork trailheads or from any of the Highway 4 trailheads. Which side of the Carson Iceberg Wilderness you begin your long-distance backpacking loops really depends on whether you have easier access to the trailheads on Highway 4 or Highway 108.
More Information
This map of the heart of the Carson Iceberg hints at the potential for great backpacking loops.
Check out this discussion of your Route Options further South down the TYT at the Boulder Lake trail junction.
Above: Southbound Backpacker's View of the Jenkins Canyon trail junction.
Lake Alpine is behind us to the Northwest, Jenkins Canyon continues our Southbound route along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail to our Right , and hiking Northeast, straight through this trail junction up to Highland Lakes will put us 3.27 miles from the Pacific Crest Trail route at Wolf Creek Pass.
The Northern ends of the the Arnot and Disaster Creek Trails running South to the Clarks Fork Road intersect with our trail between Highland Lakes and Wolf Creek Pass.
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Jenkins Canyon to the Arnot Creek Trailhead
Permits
This next 5.83 mile segment of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail from the Jenkins Canyon trail junction to the Arnot Creek Trailhead brings us out of the Northern Carson Iceberg Wilderness to its Southern half.
Administratively, we are hiking from the Calavaras Ranger District into the Summit Ranger District when we hike across the gap in the mountains between Jenkins Canyon and Woods Gulch. In terms of road access we are moving from Northern access into the Carson Iceberg Wilderness from Highway 4 to Southern access from Highway 108.
Hikers starting from the Highway 4 corridor obtain permits from the Calavaras Ranger District of the Stanislaus National Forest, while trips starting from Highway 108, including the Clarks Fork Road, obtain their permits from the Stanislaus National Forest's Summit Ranger District.
Climbing South into Jenkins Canyon you get great views North of the series of Peaks on the South side of Highway 4 and Highland Creek running Northeast up the West flank of the Sierra to the Crest line.
These peaks include Bull Run Peak, who's Southwest flank we rounded hiking from Rock Lake to Spicer Meadow Reservoir. Bull Run Peak is out of view to the Southwest in these images.
To the Northeast of Bull Run Peak we have a series of peak marching up to the Sierra Crest line. Henry Peak, Peep Sight Peak, Lookout Peak, and then Folger and Hiram Peaks bracketing Highland Lakes are the main peaks we can see to our Northeast from Jenkins Canyon.
These peaks are local favorites and are targeted by "peak baggers" as they are easily accessible from Pacific Valley and Highland Lakes.
The series of images below depict this section of the West Sierra flank up to the Sierra Crest from the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail climbing South up Jenkins Canyon.
North Carson Iceberg Wilderness.
Sigh. I really should have written down the order of peaks.
Detail of North Carson Iceberg Wilderness from 7200 feet of elevation in Jenkins Canyon.
Hiram Peak in far distant Right of image, pointy Folger Peak in middle Left (Highland Lakes between them), and Peepsight Peak is hump at middle-left of image. I'm pretty sure...
I need to line this image up with the map next time through Jenkins Canyon. As I say...
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Check out this view looking South at this terrain from the top of the PCT crossing Tyron PeakSouth of Ebbetts Pass. From the high point on Tyron Peak I was more concerned with pointing out the terrain where Disaster, Arnot, and Highland Creek cut down-mountain to their intersection points with the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail.
View North while climbing South up Jenkins Canyon.
I am having a hard time figuring this one out. This is the sheer South-side of the line of peaks along the South side of Highway 4 between Pacific Valley and the Highland Lakes Road.
We can see where the valley containing Weiser Creek cuts Northwest, to the Right behind the ridge dropping down from the middle-foreground Left. Highland Creek runs up between our position and the middle-foreground ridge, and continues to the right where Weiser Creek cuts Left.
Morning at the head of this small section of meadow, next to my little fire ring, with a babbling creek a few steps to our East, to our Right from this perspective.
Climbing up Jenkins Canyon late in the short days of late October of 2011 saw Ari and I unsuccessfully racing sunset.
As Darkness fell we continued up, and then off, the trail up Jenkins Canyon. No problem. I follow the lay of the land and the logic of trail location. I began looking for flat areas and the meadow sections up here as I continued to lead us up the mountain following the creek.
The location of the creek told me the trail was off to our right, but I waited to cut right until I spied the meadow above.
We hiked over to the most likely spot to camp at the top of the meadow in almost total darkness, and found a nice little campsite there waiting for us. The edges of the meadows along the creek are littered with little camping possibilities.
I suspect that the current route of the trail varies from the route depicted on the USGS topo map at the top of Jenkins Canyon. I will study this next time through Jenkins Canyon. If you have noticed any difference between the USGS map and the trail on the ground post up your thoughts on the Jenkins Canyon to Boulder Lake forum page.
The image above is looking North and down-mountain from our little campsite at the head of the meadow. The creek runs about 40 yards to the Right.
Fire ring at the top of the meadow.
Jenkins Canyon's Creek runs to the East of the meadow sections, where you will find little campsites and good primitive flat throw-down spots..
I want to kick myself. As we were climbing the last bit of the trail South up to the top of Jenkins Canyon I passed by a fresh bear track in soft mud that had a delicate outline of frost.
Don't let fatigue-or-fear from enjoying and even recording special circumstances.
I was tired, and though I paused to enjoy its delicate beauty, I kept straining up the grade to our crossing into Woods Gulch.
Damn.
Meadow muddy flow wetness frozen by cold overnight temps.
Though this image was taken in late October, it represents the regular below-freezing temps that you will experience during High Sierra evenings all Summer long.
Souththrough the Gap out of Jenkins Canyon into Woods Gulch
Last steps South out of Jenkins Canyon
Departing the Forest for a moment.
Hiking into the rising sun.
The trail South into Woods Gulch.
Looking South into Woods Gulch
First view South into Woods Gulch from the gap to Jenkins Canyon.
A nice soft flat area always gives the feet a break from the rigors of up and down hiking. Volcanic terrain of the East edge of the Dardanelles is visible on right of image.
To our Northeast sits an interface of granite and volcanic terrain that rises to compose the Eastern side of the massive ridge line of mountain tops running a bit East of North up to Highland Lakes. At the Eastern base of this ridge line Arnot Creek runs North roughly parallel with Highland Creek up to Upper Gardner Meadow. On the other side, the Western side of this High Sierra ridge crest Highland Creek runs in the massive valley running down from Highland Lakes.
To the Southwest of our position in Woods Gulch we can see that we are skirting around the Eastern flank of the massive volcanic hulk of The Dardanelles, who's position we have noted since it first came into view after crossing South over Mount Reba. We are passing South around The Dardanelles through Jenkins Canyon and Woods Gulch.
To our East-Northeast in the faint distance we can see the Sierra Crest line bending itself across our visible horizon.
The compass of our Southbound Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route is ultimately pointed Southeast from Woods Gulch towards Saint Marys Pass, though the trail itself will swing around the compass a bit before we get there.
The Sierra ridge line on the North side of Woods Gulch. We are looking North towards the rough location of the Eastern Flanks of Iceberg and Airola Peaks.
I'll Kiss the Stanislaus National Forest Trail Crew. You Kids are GREAT!
Fine soft trail is easy on the feet.
Note how this fine soft section of trail is wedged between the slope and the line of trees. My compliments to the Stanislaus Trail Crews for working so deftly with the terrain.
For the next 4.17 miles South along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail we will be hiking along the gentle upgrade of the Clarks Fork Road between the Arnot Creek Trail head and the Clarks Fork Trail head at the end of the road.
We will rise 240 feet as we follow the road along this long gently rising section of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.
Arnot Creek Trail headup to theClarks Fork Trail headalong theClarks Fork Road
The old Paved Section along the old Clarks Fork Road
Highways accessing the Northern and Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
Road Map for auto access to the Southern Carson-Iceberg Wilderness through Highway 108 railheads and the Clarks Fork Road. The Northern access points to the railheads along Highway 4 at Lake Alpine, Highland Lakes, and Ebbetts Pass are also marked.
Road Map South Side: Lost Lakes, Arnot Creek, Disaster Creek, and the Clarks Fork Railheads. Saint Marys and Sonora Passes. Road Map North Side: Lake Alpine, Highland Lakes, and Ebbetts Pass.
The North side of this map locates important railheads on Highway 4. The South side of this map pinpoints railheads along Highway 108 and the Clarks Fork Road.
Driving Eastup the Western Sierra Foothills on Highway 108 to the Clarks Fork Road and Sonora Pass.
Heading East up Highway 108 you could get the impression that Highway 108 is an almost endless road. Just getting to 108 can be daunting. After you have struggled to get out of the main population centers along the West coast of California, crossed The Valley, meandered through long foothills into deep and steep forests, and finally, finally pushing your straining car to climb the steep roads to reach the fine rock melody of granite and volcanic formations of the High Sierra sub-Alpine Zone to finally make it to the Sierra Crest at Sonora Pass. Whew! Highway 108 is a great scenic and historic drive, and driving it is an adventure in itself.
Independent of the specific route you take approaching Highway 108, which you can plan out on the road map above, you will no doubt go through a series of zones on your way up to Sonora Pass. These zones are much the same independent of which of the five trans-Sierra highways is your goal, if it is not Sonora Pass at Highway 108.
There are five trans-Sierra mountain roads of concern to this trail guide. From North to South they are Highways 50, 88, 4, 108, and 120. From North to South each of these roads is longer, goes higher, and is more remote, with the exception of most Southern of these trans-Sierra roads, Highway 120, the Tioga Road. Because Highway 120 is the very busy Northern and main entrance to Yosemite it's hard to call Highway 120 "remote."
Highway 108's 9624 feet of elevation across Sonora Pass is the second highest mountain pass in the Sierra Nevada to Tioga Pass's 9943 feet. Continuing North the elevation of the passes continues to decline. Ebbetts Pass's 8732 feet of elevation declines to 8600 feet at Carson Pass, and Highway 50's entrance into the Tahoe Basin across Echo Summit's 7377 feet is the lowest elevation road we cross between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney.
Though I approach the Sierras as a single Tahoe to Whitney backpacking trip, these Sierra roads divide the long trails into smaller sections. Each of these trail sections divided by the highways between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney offer a range of exceptional short to long distance backpacking trips.
Trans-High Sierra Roads: Getting There
For most of us the first problem is getting out of our massive population zones themselves. They are difficult to exit, let alone live within. Cross-town traffic leads onto snarled highways. Try getting out if you don't drive. Hitch hiking out of the cities is not a good option. Too many city freaks nowadays. Use public transportation to get as far out of the urban area as possible, but that's kind of like jumping from the frying pan into the fire.
After getting out of the city you are faced with crossing The Valley. The Valley is not just wide, hot, and flat, it is also very difficult to catch a ride.
Crossing The Valley entails many-many miles of hot flatness before you finally begin to feel the low rises in the terrain that signal the first beginnings of the foothills. From the smallest seeds grow the mightiest trees... Once you begin to encounter low rises on the Eastern side of The Valley, these rises grow rapidly into deep rolling undulations, telling you that Highway 49 is not located too far to your East, and you will soon be exiting the relentless plain of The Valley.
Other than driving or hitching to the trans-Sierra mountain roads you have few other options. Amtrack runs a combination train/bus service into South Lake Tahoe, and another into Yosemite via Highway 120. Craig's List has a ride share section that can be helpful.
Highway 49 is the North-South road marking the "official" beginning of the Western Sierra Nevada Foothills. East of Highway 49 is generally considered The Sierra Nevada, and West of 49 is The Valley. As with any other boundary, there are long transition zones that defy easy definition.
Highway 49 begins, for our purposes, at the point where it turns South along the Western Sierra Foothills after crossing the low-altitude Sierra East & West North of Highway 80 (Donner Pass). Highway 49 turns South down the Western flank of the Sierra Nevada Mountains from here to constitute the highest elevation and only road running North and South along the Western Sierra Foothills from North of Highway 80 to just a tad South of Mariposa at Oakhurst. I measure the length of Highway 49 from Highway 80 to its end at Oakhurst along the Western Sierra Foothills at 196 miles. A very twisty and slow 196 miles it is, to be precise.
Using Highway 49 to travel long distances North and South along the Western Sierra Foothills is not advised. It takes too long. Use the main North-South highways in The Valley, Highways 5 or 99, to line yourself up with your chosen trans-Sierra highway. Turn East onto that highway from 5 or 99. Unless you want to check out the historic Gold Rush District from California's past that is concentrated along Highway 49.
Highway 49 is perfect tourist country. The relics and remnants of the Gold Rush are preserved, celebrated, and are the current cultural and economic foundations for many of the towns up and down Highway 49. There's also lots of interesting folks up and down Highway 49.
The Southern End of Highway 49: Two Yosemite Entrances
At the Southern end of Highway 49 there are two towns, Mariposa and Oakhurst, where the central and Southern entrances to Yosemite are located.
Mariposa is the town where Highway 140, the troublesomecentral entrance to Yosemite, begins. Avalanches and undercutting of Highway 140 have kept it closed more than open during the latter half of this new century's first decade. Oakhurst, where Highway 49 ends, is where Highway 41, the Southern access road into the Yosemite Valley, begins.
Highway 395: Eastern Escarpment
The Western Sierra's Highway 49 has an Eastern cousin, Highway 395. Highway 395 brackets the Eastern flank of the Sierra from North to South as Highway 49 brackets the Western Flank. These parallel North-South roads bracket the opposite flanks of the Sierra, which suites them. They are very different roads across very different terrains.
The Eastern and Western Flanks of the Sierra Nevada are very different.
Highway 49 along the Western Sierra Foothills is named for the "49er" gold rush, while the history of Highway 395 along the Eastern escarpment is characterized by the Silver Boom. Highway 49 twists in and out, East and West into and out of the deep canyons running down-mountain along the extensive and deeply undulating western flank of the Sierra. The Eastern Sierra is much different.
Along the Eastern flank of the Sierra the sheer Eastern escarpment of the Sierra Nevada rises almost straight up for thousands of feet out of the narrow strip of high desert terrain, generally averaging around 5000 feet in elevation, that separates the Eastern Sierra from the next mountain ranges to the East.
Great dry mountain ranges sit just East of the sheer escarpment of the Eastern Sierra Nevada, with Highway 395 running though the narrow strip of high desert separating them.
East of the Carson Range around Lake Tahoe sits the Pine Nut Range across the Carson Valley. A bit South of Lake Tahoe the Sweetwaters face the Eastern Sierra South of Antelope Valley, the White Mountains are located East of Mammoth Lakes, and the Inyo Mountains rise East of Big Pine, dividing the heights of the Eastern Sierra from the depths of Death Valley. Highway 395 runs North and South between the Eastern Sierra and these desolate dry ranges from North of Lake Tahoe to South of Lone Pine.
Much of the length of Highway 395 is bounded by pasturage and ranches wedged between the mountains East and West. These are the remnants of the ranches started to feed the miners in the surrounding mountains during the Gold and on through the Silver rushes. Though the miners long ago faded away, for the most part, the ranches have remained, nourishing a cowboy culture that has survived here for over a century.
Rather than running in and out around foothill ridges, big sections of Highway 395 run in straight lines North and South along the base of the sheer Eastern escarpment of the Sierra. Highway 395 is a road offering magnificent views West of stunning Sierra mountainscapes, and views East of the dry ranges and deserts beyond. And, as a bonus, Highway 395 also features fine hot springs up and down the length of the road along the Eastern Sierra escarpment...
A Range of Choices
Between our starting trailheads at Lake Tahoe South down to Mount Whitney there are five East-West trans-Sierra highways crossing the High Sierra Crest. Each of these highways crosses Highway 49 on the Western side of the Sierra and each intersects with Highway 395 on the Eastern side. Ok, back to our trip up the Western flank of the Sierra on Highway 108 to the Clarks Forks Road...
To the Clarks Fork!
Continuing East from Highway 49 marks our entrance to the Sierra Nevada proper, independent of which of the five trans-Sierra mountain roads you are on, be it Highway 50, 88, 4, 108, or 120. They all cross Highway 49.
Our trip up Highway 108 to the Clarks Fork road is typical of driving East up any of the mountain roads across the Sierra Crest between Lake Tahoe and Highway 120. Each road is worth the drive not just to see the beauties of each of the trans-Sierra highways, which is worthwhile in itself, but the real payoff is gaining access to each road's local high altitude trailheads along the Sierra Crest line to the Tahoe to Yosemite and the Pacific Crest Trails.
We drive East on Highway 120 from Manteca, or, if we are approaching from the South we will drive East on Highway 108 from Modesto. Both of these cities are located along Highway 99 on the Eastern side of The Valley. Both roads heading East from 99 are crossing the last bits of flatness of The Valley before entering the roller coaster of the low Sierra Foothills.
Before we enter the foothills the Eastbound routes of Highway 108 and Highway 120 unify in the quaint cowboy town of Oakdale. Well, it used to be quaint... crazy shit is happening there now. Independent of recent changes in Oakdale culture, many fine cowboys and country folk still live there. While Highway 120 begins in Manteca, and Highway 108 tracks East from Modesto, both these routes come together in Oakdale and run East together out of Oakdale.
New intersections, lights, and road signs in Oakdale as of 2009 (or around 2009...) make the junction between Highways 108 & 120 fairly painless.
Highway 108-120 Split
East of Oakdale, and just a few miles West of the Gold Rush town of Jamestown, Highway 120 splits off from Highway 108 to the Southeast, taking a big chunk of Summertime traffic with it to Yosemite. I'm cool with that...the herd thins... I never drive into Yosemite. I almost always walk there.
Highway 120 is the Tioga Pass Road which offers Northern access to Yosemite Valley. For our purposes Highway 120 is important because it crosses the Sierra crest through Tuolumne Meadows, which makes it an important resupply point along our Tahoe to Whitney backpacking trip. South of Kennedy Meadows Tuolumne Meadows is our next resupply spot, and our next contact with "civilization."
The Tioga Road is also the Southernmost of all of the trans-High Sierra roads, until you get down to Lake Isabella. Continuing our drive East up Highway 108 past the Highway 120 split we will pass through a series of quaint communities of diminishing size and services, starting with Jamestown, as the road steepens and narrows.
The 108-120 split is where the hitch hiking gets good. West of this point it sucks.
Approaching the Stanislaus River
Long after passing by the town of Sonora and just after passing the Pinecrest Lake turnoff and the massive Pinecrest Ranger Station we drop down to the tiny community of Strawberry, only to begin a long climb out of it at the hard Left turn that marks the center of the town, and also marks the low point of the road where we cross the South Fork of the Stanislaus River.
Continuing our climb out of Strawberry we pass by the Winter snow gates and we can begin to observe the massive gorges dropping off to our Right and Left. We note that we are driving along the top of a massive ridge line reaching East up towards the Sierra Crest between two great drainages. The Middle Fork of the Stanislaus to our Left, and the drainage feeding the South Fork to our Right.
After leaving the Donnell Lake turnoff behind to our Left we lose sight of the massive canyon to our Right as the road drops onto the South Flank of the great gorge on our Left, the Middle Fork of the Stanislaus River. Observing carefully we begin to understand that Donnell lake Dams up the great drainage below that Highway 108 is paralleling up here along the mountainside.
We have passed through grasslands (yeah-sure) of The Valley, the grass and oak zone at the edges of The Valley and low Foothills, and are now climbing higher into the cool depths of the rich pine forests clinging to the steep ridge sides. If we continue East past the Clarks Fork Road on Highway 108 we will finally drive our straining car into the Alpine zone as we draw near the 9640 foot crest of Highway 108 across Sonora Pass. At Sonora Pass trailheads to the North along the PCT and the TYT are located, as well as the Southbound PCT Trailhead. The TYT continues South out of Kennedy Meadows.
As we parallel the Middle Stanislaus River past Donnell Lake we can begin to see ahead that this steep and deep drainage valley to our Left continues up to and cuts deeply into the Sierra Crest Line towering in the East. We can see that this great valley actually cuts a great gash twisting Southeast and up into the mountains towards the Sierra Crest through the curtain of mountains ahead.
The valley we are looking at ahead is the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River cutting through the Western flank of the Sierra up to its headwaters just a bit Northwest of Sonora Pass.
The first time you drive East across Highway 108 you will naturally believe that this valley holds the route of Highway 108 across the Sierra. It was. A long time ago. The Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River is the highest, deepest, widest, and longest section of the vast network of rivers and creeks the feed the Middle Stanislaus River.
The valley holding the Clarks Fork was also an early route of the wagon roads across the Sierra. Today the Clarks Fork Road is a segment of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail through the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. Our hiking goal along the Clarks Fork Road and River is to climb out of the headwaters of the Clarks Fork over to Saint Marys Pass and down to road access on Highway 108. But the Clarks Fork is not the present route of Highway 108.
As we drive East to the point where observations of the vast valley of the Clarks Fork convinces you that Highway 108 does indeed proceed East up the valley, we then can see another valley cutting in from the Southeast, from our Right, become visible as we begin to descend down towards river level from the side of the valley.
Rather than continuing up the great Clarks Fork valley that we have been observing, Highway 108 drops downmountain and veers Right, Southeast, to enter a medium-sized canyon that holds what looks like a significant tributary to the great Middle Stanislaus River. This valley does not hold a tributary, but it is the Middle Stanislaus River itself which turns up this side canyon, while the larger Clarks Fork canyon continues East up mountain.
Highway 108 drops down off its valley-side route and begins turning to the Eastbound driver's Right down to the gentle flat holding this almost-flat upper section of the Middle Fork of the Stanislaus River before it merges with the Clarks Fork.
This stunningly beautiful flat along the flat section of the Middle Stanislaus between the Clarks Fork and Deadman Creek also holds a series of incredibly popular Stanislaus National Forest car campgrounds. The stunning beauty of this High Sierra flat is composed of alternating sections of meadow, forest, and riverine terrain within this narrow and sheer high altitude granite canyon. The beauty of this terrain assures that these car camping sites are packed full every Summer.
Highway 108 turns out of the Middle Stanislaus at the end of this fine flat to begin steeply climbing up a narrow track above the narrow gorge of Deadman Creek to Sonora Pass. Highway 108 follows this steep route rather than the gentle course of the Clarks Fork up to Saint Marys Pass. The Saint Marys Pass Trailhead sits just a mile West of Sonora Pass along Highway 108.
Why?
I believe Highway 108's current route up Deadman Creek was decided by the difference in avalanche and flooding danger during Spring and Fall, and the resulting higher road maintenance costs. The current route up Deadman is much more distant from the base of steep avalanche zones than the narrow route up the Clarks Fork, which is beneath steep slopes within a narrow valley, while the current route of Highway 108 is generally not in or along Spring-thaw flood zones, as is the whole route up the Clarks Fork. Though the upper reaches of the Clarks Fork provide a much better graded approach to the Sierra Crest this route is contained within a narrow valley surrounded by steep mountains. If not for these Spring-Fall avalanche and flooding issues, the route up the Clarks Fork to Sonora Pass is a much gentler route than that up Deadman Creek.
Clarks Fork Road Turnoff
As Highway 108 turns Southeast to enter this beautiful Flat along the Middle Stanislaus, road signs indicate our upcoming Left turn onto the Clarks Fork Road that traces its way up the great valley cut by the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River. But first, if you have some time on your hands, continue East on Highway 108 across the length of this fine flat along the Middle Stanislaus. At the far end of the flat take the Right turn down the well-marked paved road to Kennedy Meadows Pack Station. Though paved, this road is in poor condition. Real bumpy and patched. I've inspected it closely many times.
When you get to Kennedy Meadows, park, get out of your car, or take off your pack, hit the store and buy a beer. In the store you can give Cheryl and the ladies my greetings and well-wishes, if not your own. Go out and sit quietly on the patio observing the situation as you enjoy your beer. Maybe go sit on the back patio, if you can tolerate free people. Check out the office between the store and restaurant. Give Matt Bloom, Mrs. Bloom, and Joan, or whoever is in the office my regards. Matt's eldest girl was starting to work the office too. Show them the respect that backpackers have for cowboys.
Especially the cowboys that offer long-distance backpackers full services and full hospitality along the High Sierra Trails. It's the least we can do.
After the beer, have a Chile-Cheese burger if you are in-time for lunch, or the dinner special if you are running real late. Tell the waitresses hello, and be nice to the cowboys and tourists. If you need to spend a night indoors, ask about the bunk house, or a cabin if you have bucks and it's not mid-Summer. Good luck in mid-Summer. KM's cabins are booked mid-Summer for years in advance. If neither of these options suit you, there are likely nice places nearby to throw down you bag for an early start after breakfast.
There are a chain of free car camping sites in the National Forest lands along Highway 108 starting a couple of miles East of the Kennedy Meadows Road (after you finish the big climb) all the way to and over Sonora Pass, extending down the Eastern Flank, and then up the dirt road to Leavitt Lake. There is absolutely NO PIRATE CAMPING along the Middle and Clarks Fork Rivers.
Both of these very popular car camping areas areas strictly enforce their no camping except in designated spots in the designated National Forest Campgrounds policy. The Carson Iceberg Topo Map shows six car campgrounds in this small area. Both the Clarks Fork and Middle Stanislaus areas up here are very popular car camping areas. The National Forest Car Campgrounds are not the only game in town.
Free Car Camping on Highway 108
Free long-established car camping spots in the National Forest along Highway 108 are concentrated on the West side of the high altitude meadow to the West of Sonora Pass itself. Starting at about 4 miles West of Sonora Pass you will see nice dirt tracks leading to well-established car campsites on the North side of the road. The hunters have been coming up here and establishing car camps for generations. Just to the East of Sonora Pass at the base of the steep descent down from Sonora Pass itself there are also a few nice free car camping sites to your right along the highway. These free National Forest campsites are great places to spend a night acclimating to the altitude before hitting the trail.
All of the Trans-Sierra Roads will bring you through many miles of beautiful terrain zones that are worth seeing, at least according to the Euros. Every year I meet German and French tourists up at Sonora Pass checking out the terrain, history, and current culture.
Who would think that the remoteness and history of Sonora Pass is know in Europe? If the Euros think it's worth seeing, it's worth taking a drive up to check it out for yourself.
The paved Clarks Fork Road up to the Clarks Fork Trailhead
Arnot Creek Trailhead to the Clarks Fork Trailhead
Between the Arnot Creek Trailhead and the Clarks Fork Trailhead we have a 3.61 mile hike along the old paved Clarks Fork wagon road to its end-point at the Clarks Fork Trailhead along the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus.
Road Sign Pointing the way from the Clarks Fork Road.
A short well-maintained dirt road connects the Clarks Fork Road to the Arnot Creek Trail head. The USGS 30 minute map correctly depicts the dirt road looping at the trailhead, but does not show the old road continuing up Arnot Creek past the current trailhead, almost to the Jenkins Canyon trail junction.
The USDA Forest Service Map of the Carson Iceberg Wilderness shows dirt road loop at the Arnot Trailhead, and the old roadbed continuing up Arnot Creek, though it is no longer open for vehicles.
Reaching the old paved road after exiting the trail out of the Arnot Creek Trailhead you will take a Left, heading East and upstream along the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River to continue your hike South along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail.
The Arnot Creek Bridge along Clarks Fork Road
Road to Arnot Creek Trailhead from Clarks Fork Road.
The 1960 Arnot Creek Bridge on the Clarks Fork Road heading East over Arnot Creek to Disaster Creek and the Clarks Fork Trailheads.
There is no alternative or shortcut to following the dirt road as it takes us West, the wrong way, before meeting-up with the paved Clarks Fork Road.
Another fine old bridge in the area is the old 1933 Dardanelle Bridge across the Middle Stanislaus River on Highway 108 just East of the Dardanelles Store.
Reaching the Clarks Fork Road gives you another option for re-supply.
Highway 108 is six miles West down the Clarks Fork Road, then its a few miles East along the Highway 108 to the store at Dardanelles. But, I highly suggest you continue a couple of miles beyond the Dardanelles Store to the turnoff for Kennedy Meadows Pack Station.
Kennedy Meadows Pack Station has a better store, a better restaurant, and full laundry and shower facilities perfect for long distance backpackers. And a Bar!
It should be real easy to get a ride to Highway 108 out of the Clarks Fork Road and on to Kennedy Meadows Pack Station during the Summertime when car campers throng to this area.
Arnot Creek Bridge looking South up the Clarks Fork Road off of Highway 108.
Although the nearby Dardanelles Bridge is listed on BridgeHunter, this Arnot Creek Bridge is listed on UglyBridges.
I consider the chance of getting rid of garbage and the occasional use of a toilet seat a real backpacker resource.
At the far South end of Sand Flat you encounter dumpsters and bathrooms.
Luxury.
Walk In Campsites Behind the Bathroom
I believe that there are 15 walk-in sites and 53 drive in sites at Sand Flat.
The Stanislaus National Forest Sand Flat page indicates that fees are $17 dollars per night.
Though my hiking plans never call for a night along the Clarks Fork Road I stop to use any empty picnic tables I encounter near a fresh water spigot in the campgrounds to re-hydrate and have lunch or a major break.
Use the fancy bathrooms, sit and cook up lunch at a table, water-up from the clean-water faucets, and maybe talk to some car campers.
Looking Down at the Walk-In Sites
The walk-in sites are located on a little flat along shore of Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.
View of the walk in campground from the Clarks Fork Road.
A quiet shaded flat along the river below the noise of the Clarks Fork Road and busy campground.
I've never stayed here, but it is a pretty little set of campsites.
Another view that shows the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus running beyond the walk-in camp.
Memorial
Memorials dot the Sierra terrain.
These mountains are full of hard engagements with nature.
Every year people visiting the mountains are injured and killed. Be Careful.
From Gold Rush grave sites to peaks named after disasters and relief expeditions, the Sierra past and present is formed by hard experiences.
One of many fine rock walls that line the uphill side of the Clarks Fork Road.
A long view East reveals bends in the river and therefore the road.
Heading up the Clarks Fork Road.
The Southbound TYT heads East along the Clarks Fork Road.
Looking down the Clarks Fork Road to the Southwest.
Our hike up the Clarks Fork Road is mostly along a shelf cut above the river.
I generally can get a ride from the beginning of the paved road up to its end. But there was almost no one out here in late October when I shot these images.
As we climb higher up the canyon the road and the river comes closer together.
Beyond the Sand Flat campground we have a 2.51 mile hike up 240 feet to the end of the gradually rising Clarks Fork Road.
Detail of another fine rock wall along the Clarks Fork Road.
The terrain hiking up the Clarks Fork Road, and along the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River past the road, is by far the smoothest, best-graded route up to Sonora Pass.
About half-way up the Disaster Creek Trail North towards Gardner Meadow a junction breaks off the trail to your right to link the Disaster Creek trail to the Pacific Crest Trail at Golden Canyon through Paradise Valley.
Disaster Creek Trail Miles
From the Disaster Creek Trailhead to its Northern junction with the trail from Gardner Meadow to Wolf Creek Pass is 7.02 miles.
Note that the 1st trail junction North of the Disaster Peak Trailhead leads up to an unmarked trail junction on the PCT South of Disaster Peak. I would assume most of this trail is an unmaintained faint route.
End of the Clarks Fork Road
Heading past the Disaster Creek Trailhead we can see the end of the Clarks Fork Road. Here we will continue South through the Clarks Fork Trailhead along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail.
Approaching the Clarks Fork Meadow, who's brown fall grasses you see beyond the road.
The Iceberg
You can notice the top of The Iceberg poking over the forest as you approach the end of the Clarks Fork Road.
A few step South of the Disaster Creek Trailhead The Iceberg dominates the scene across the Clarks Fork Meadow from the Clarks Fork Trailhead.
A couple of little streams lay between the Clarks Fork Trailhead and the upcoming Boulder Lake trail junction.
The time of year determines the flow rate of creeks and rivers. Spring flow intensity is determined by temp and the status of the snowpack. Summer brings diminished flows, tapering to a trickle during Fall.
"Easy" fords are a matter of timing.
The character of the annual movement of water is determined by the specifics of each season. Summer hikers are well informed of the conditions they can expect to encounter by tracking the evolution of conditions throughout the year, especially the transition of Winter into Spring. This transition will determine when the trail open and the creeks and rivers recede from raging torrents to placid flows.
The status of the Winter snow pack against the profile of rising Spring temps determines both the potential intensity of the Spring Thaw, as well as how long and how much water will be running during late Summer.
The interlocking natures of the Winter snows and the Spring Thaw determine each Summer's moisture conditions. These factors are all tied together by hemispheric weather patterns that we can track.
These grand global forces "set the table" for the local conditions we will experience on the ground during each season of every year. Tracking the hemispheric weather engines that annually determine the nature of each year's water cycle gives us the outlines of "the big picture."
The High Sierra Weather Page also provides resources for us to focus in on the specific conditions on the ground across the length and breadth of the Sierra Nevada through its links to a wide range of ground reporting stations.
These reporting stations allow you to get a real-time glimpse of temp and snow conditions on the ground.
The second tributary cutting a pocket across the trail.
Great boulders roll down the rivers during great Spring Thaws. When a raging Spring Thaw is thundering down mountain one of the scariest sounds a river can make are the sounds of great boulders rolling, smashing, and grinding down river hidden under the raging flow.
That sound always makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up.
Hiking South into the Boulder Lake trail junction along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail.
The trail junction post can be seen just Right of the big tree. The trail up to Boulder Lake continues straight through this junction along Boulder Creek. The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail turns Right across Boulder Creek to continue following the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River up to Saint Marys Pass.
The Boulder Lake Trail Junction to the Pacific Crest Trail
The Boulder Lake trail up to the Pacific Crest Trail from the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus is the Southernmost of the 4 trails connecting the PCT and TYT routes across the Carson Iceberg Wilderness.
The total distance between the Boulder Lake Junction on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail to the Boulder Lake Junction on the Pacific Crest Trail is 2.74 miles.
The elevation difference is 1690 feet.
This is the shortest of all 4 trails linking the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail with the Pacific Crest Trail through the Carson Iceberg Wilderness.
Boulder Creek junction with the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River
The Boulder Creek ford just past the Boulder Lake trail junction.
Trail crews are responsible for creating most of the lines of stepping stones that look so perfectly crafted for Summertime backpackers.
Campsites at the Boulder Lake Trail Junction
On the South side of Boulder Creek there are a series of nice campsites. This is an old remnant of a National Forest Trail Crew "keyway" fire slot.
These fire slots mark the location of old and current Trail Crew camps. The keyway is cut facing the prevailing wind, and lined with suitable rocks. The keyway creates a venturi that feeds the fire. If trail crew sets up a camp here in the future they will dig this out.