The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail
or
The Pacific Crest Trail
South to Tuolumne Meadows?
Passing South through the Carson Gap marks your point of departure from the Lake Tahoe Basin.
Independent of where you started, be it 40 miles North at Meeks Bay, 10 miles North at Echo Summit, or 8 miles coming up from the South Upper Truckee Trailhead, the terrain outside of the Tahoe Basin is going to radically change.
But how it changes depends on which way you head South out of the Lake Tahoe Basin. You have two options.
The Tahoe to Yosemite or the Pacific Crest Trail South from the Carson Gap to Tuolumne Meadows?
You have a choice of trails when you head South from the Carson Gap. First, you can head around the Southwest side of Round Top to follow the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail along the Western flank of the Sierras to Lake Alpine.
Your second option is to follow the Pacific Crest Trail through the Carson Pass, passing around the Southeast side of Round Top and Elephant Back to follow along the Eastern Flank of the Sierras to Ebbetts Pass.
Both are excellent trail routes. I suggest you hike both, as possible.
The Tahoe to Yosemite vs. The Pacific Crest Trail
Time
If we follow the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail along the Western Flank of the Sierras South from the Carson Gap, we are going to be spending roughly 2 nights hiking to Lake Alpine. We will arrive at Lake Alpine early on the second morning coming out of the Carson Gap.
I also figure on spending the same amount of time, roughly two nights and a small bit of a third day, getting to Ebbetts Pass from the Carson Pass along the Pacific Crest Trail route. You must add more or less time as necessary to suite your needs and capabilities.
The Numbers
21.41 miles from the Carson Gap to Lake Alpine via the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail. Miles & Elevations. Maps.
26.78 miles from the Carson Pass to Ebbetts Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail. Miles & Elevations. Maps.
Despite the 5 and a quarter mile difference between the two routes, mileage is not the most important distinction between the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trails.
Check out the mileages coming down from Meeks Bay
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Physical Differences between Routes: Climate and Terrain
The Tahoe to Yosemite route between the Carson Gap and Lake Alpine on Highway 4 traverses the Western Flank of the Sierras. The Western flank of the Sierras is generally shadier, cooler, and wetter than the PCT's route along the Eastern flank.
Besides being more exposed, hotter, and drier, the Eastern flank of the Sierras between Carson Pass and Ebbetts Pass is physically quite different in appearance than the Western Flank between Carson Gap and Lake Alpine. The vast majority of the Pacific Crest Trail along Eastern flank passes through the harsh and subtle beauties of barren volcanic terrain.
While the PCT crosses the arid volcanic terrain of Sierra's Eastern Flank with long views East, the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail submerges itself into deeply forested granitic gorges and valleys descending off of the moister Western flank of the Sierras. This moisture accounts for the denser forests on the Western Flank of the Sierras than the Eastern.
Though both routes are dry, the Western Flank's windward position, facing the Pacific Ocean, makes it noticeably greener than the Eastern Flank. Having more tree cover gives the hiker more shade, making for a cooler hike.
Psychological Difference: Much more isolated
The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route is also much more remote and less traveled than the Pacific Crest Trail route. It is not uncommon to pass through the whole section between Summit City Creek and Lake Alpine without meeting another backpacker.
This is because of the very difficult conditions that characterize the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail between the Summit City Creek and Camp Irene on the N fork of the Mokelumne River.
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Unmaintained Trail Section on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail
The reason for the low backpacker traffic on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route between the Carson Pass and Lake Alpine is the rough terrain and difficult navigation demanded by the 9.52 miles of unmaintained trail between the Summit City Creek trail junction below Fourth of July Lake, to the North Fork of the Mokelumne River at Camp Irene.
Basic Conditions on the Unmaintained Sections
On an unmaintained section of trail you should expect that all signs of trail, trail bed, blazes, and ducks are absent for extended lengths. You should expect fallen trees, heavy overgrowths of brush, runoff gorges, and boulders to block your way. A wide variety of obstacles can be depended on block your route, and obscure all traces of the route you are following.
Crossing this type of terrain with a backpack is very hard work. This type of terrain demands physical conditioning and backcountry skills necessary to prevent injury while carrying a heavy pack across difficult and unstable terrain. You know you are in good enough shape when it is fun. For me this means I am running 7 miles every other day up 750 feet of elevation. Less training and preparation, less fun on the trail.
This terrain also demands the ability to find the best route in the proper direction without trail, trail markers, blazes, or ducks. Again, you know you are good to go when you enjoy the experience. If your skills are sufficient, you will find this a fun challenge. If they are not, you will find this section to be a little piece of hell.
If you are in poor condition with undeveloped route finding skills, your inability to find the easiest way through will seriously increase your workload. As your workload increases your fatigue, your ability to observe and make good decisions decreases.
In any case, projected or predicted times to make mileage on maintained trails is significantly altered by encountering unmaintained routes. It can easily take twice as long to cross a mile of an unmaintained route as it would to cross a mile of maintained trail.
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Backpacking is Dangerous
Backpacking is dangerous, and can generate significant amounts of physical and psychological stress. Injury and death are regular outcomes for backpackers.
Every year backpackers get lost, injured, struck by lightening, eaten by bears, drown while crossing rivers, shot by hunters, or frozen in unexpected blizzards. These are the things that can happen to well-prepared, smart backpackers. I have not even begun to mention the things that unprepared stupid backpackers do to themselves through bad decision making.
(Example of Stupidity: Use your food bag as a pillow.)
Nothing in this trail guide will protect you against yourself or the occasional Fury of Nature.
Backpacking unmaintained trails multiplies all of these dangers, puts you further from help and/or rescue, and generally increases all of the physical and psychological stresses and dangers of normal backpacking.
It is during these hard engagements with nature that I have my best experiences. Though most of us attempt to mitigate these dangers, there is always a reasonable chance that you will get lost, get injured, or get dead.
The best way to minimize the ever-present chances of injury and death is to build your backpacking and backcountry skills and fitness in conjunction with increasing the difficulty of your backpacking trips. This way you will reduce the chances of putting yourself in situations you are not prepared for.
Don't attempt the unmaintained section of the Tahoe to Yosemite trail unless you are an accomplished, experienced backpacker, in good physical shape, capable of reading maps, with good route finding skills and properly equipped with enough food to accommodate a longer crossing of this section than you anticipated. Remember: Shit happens.
Your pace, carrying capacity, state of physical conditioning, and the particular route you choose may extend or shorten the duration of your trip through this section of the trail, and any of the trails described on this web site. Plan accordingly. Discretion is often the better part of valor.
Psychological Difference II: Much more isolated, and no maintained trails
This combination of isolation, no trails, and very hard hiking presents different obstacles than the typical long distance backpacking trip. Pressing for miles is replaced by pressing to find a route through the terrain, if you cannot locate signs of the trailbed itself. This is completely different than running down a maintained trail.
This type of travel requires careful observation, good decision making on observations, and the ability to backtrack to the point where you deviated from the best route, so you can try again.
Cross country travel produces a certain type of stress in addition to the normal stresses of backpacking. The normal stresses of backpacking are generally physical, caused by being constantly exposed to the environment, and the constant work staying in motion over the terrain demands.
Good gear mitigates the hots and colds of being constantly exposed to the elements, and constant work is offset by good eating, plenty of water, and proper rest. I find that the physical stress of normal backpacking is an excellent antidote for the psychological and physical stresses of Urban Life. One is very good for you, the other is very bad.
Cross country travel puts all stresses other than finding the proper route into secondary positions. The things that bothered you most on the trail; hunger, overheating, and exhaustion can all become inconsequential when the thing you relied on the most for your security, the trail, disappears.
It can be quite disquieting.
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Take a Break
It is at just this moment, when your most basic assumption about backpacking, the trail itself, has disappeared from beneath your feet, when you must not freak out, and rebalance your approach to backpacking. Kick back and take a nice break. Have a snack and some water. Observe and Consider your situation. Food, Water, and rest are vital, and without them you will deprive yourself your ability to observe, analyze, and make good decisions.
Stop, rehydrate, fill up your water bottle, and cook up a nice hot meal and some coffee. Restore your calm approach, and your clear vision and good decision making process will follow. Always maintain your water and food consumption as you struggle to find and follow a very difficult route.
Basic Details of the Unmaintained Section between The Summit City Creek trail junction (below Fourth of July Lake) to Camp Irene
The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail's Unmaintained Section
(As of July 2009)
Between the Summit City Creek trail Junction and Telephone Gulch there is occasionally a followable trail bed, though the trail is very faint in some sections. The many downed trees require some climbing to follow the identifiable sections of the trailbed.
From Telephone Gulch to the first open rock section above the upper ford the going is really rough. You can only identify and follow the trail bed for very short sections, if at all, until it is obliterated by swaths of downed trees, completely covered and overgrown by great forests of ferns, or transformed by the Spring runoff from old trail remnants into tributaries feeding Summit City Creek. You just have to put together the best route through here as you can. If you are "on" the lay of the land you will occasionally hit small indications of the previous existence of a trail through here.
Ducks
It was recently pointed out by SandyNevada that this route was very heavily, but not very well ducked by the time she traveled it in late Summer.
Sigh. If you are not very well aware of the terrain, and completely sure you are on the optimal route, don't try to duck the route. Ducking the route reduces the enjoyment and challenge of many of the backpackers that hike through here for the challenge of navigating the terrain.
Sandy also noted that her research with the Tahoe Basin Rangers indicated that no more than 10 Tahoe to Yosemite permits are issued each year. This is not the best measure of the use of this section of trail, as many backpackers who come through here are hiking short or medium distance trips out of The Carson Pass Management Area, or coming North out of Lake Alpine.
Continuing South from Telephone Gulch
After you pass through this very rough section of highly obscured "trail," mostly composed of small bits of discrete remnants of trail bed South of Telephone Gulch, your will breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the first small section of exposed granite.
This section is easy to navigate, but it is brief, and you still have a small section of forest to get through before you reach the second section of open granite. The second section of open granite past Telephone Gulch continues South across open rock all the way down to the upper ford of Summit City Creek.
The route through this open granite section was fairly well ducked (marked by occasional stacks of differently colored rocks) in July of 2009. The problem with ducks is that Winter snows knock down most of the less secure ducks each year. So early season backpackers may not have many ducks to follow. But you should observe the piles of rocks that remain.
I find fewer ducks more stimulating than too many ducks.
Recap
To cross this section of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail between Summit City Creek and Camp Irene you should be prepared to find your way without trail or trail signs through 9.52 +/- miles of forest, rock, and manzanita.
The conditions you may encounter through here demand that you to have the physical fitness and navigational skill to find your way through this section over difficult terrain without trails.
If you don't have these skills you will suffer and be endangered in proportion to your lack of skills.
...
South from the Upper Ford
After crossing Summit City Creek's upper ford, look to your right for the faint trail that climbs up the granite knoll sitting above the river. Don't try to continue straight up the drainage behind the ford, though it looks like the easiest way. Instead, the route turns right to roughly follow the course of the creek, but from above the creek. The rocky turmoil of sheer terrain that Summit City Creek cuts through here is what is forcing us to ford and climb up, up around this rough section of Summit City Creek.
At the top of this granite knoll you will find a small campsite with an even smaller fire ring. Continuing South, you will descend off the knoll, shortly entering a small maze of manzanita brush. Get used to it. Manzanita decorates much of the route down to the lower ford of Summit City Creek.
When your Southbound descent flattens out and you again begin to approach Summit City Creek, look West to the Creek for access to water and a couple of very nice campsites. This granite flat location sits about a mile and a third South of the upper ford of Summit City Creek.
Continuing South to the end of the flat spot, we again begin to bend East away from the creek onto the dry manzanita covered mountainside. The manzanita and heat are indicative of the elevation.
At this point we have descended down the Summit City Drainage to 6120 feet from our 9630 foot high spot crossing over Round Top, losing this elevation over 6.39 rough miles.
Of the 2.51 miles between the upper and lower fords on Summit City Creek, you will find that most of this distance is on an exposed Southern facing manzanita-covered mountainside.
These lower elevations mean that the majority of this section of trail is very hot. The heat, the exposure, and the full contact manzanita offers a multitude of route options. These factors all combine to make this a challenging descent.
The campsite on the granite flat that we are hiking past is about a mile and a quarter above the lower Summit City Creek Ford. As mentioned, this distance is mostly covered with a massive maze of manzanita, which you will have to navigate down to the second ford.
***
After the second, lower ford of Summit City Creek, a short ducked section of trail will bring you up to the entrance of a deep and dark un-blazed forest you enter passing after passing a black pond.
Making your way across this forest down into and across a unblazed forested bowl sitting on the North shore of the N Mokelumne River is pretty challenging. From there you must find where the ducked trail climbing out of the Southwest side of the forested bowl to Camp Irene is located. This too is pretty challenging. Here's my advice:
Turn left when you enter the forest past at the end of the marked trail at the Black Pond. Make your way South and downward through the forest for less than a half-mile.
Rock ridges project out to your Left from the edge of the forest, but avoid following them out, for they are dead ends. Continue South and down along the boundary between rock and forest to where the terrain begins to flatten out, and you will find seasonal drainages that runs to your left, to the Southeast, down to the N Mokelumne River. Follow the lowest of these drainages down SE into the forest filled granite bowl alongside the N. Mokelumne River.
As you follow this drainage down, you are entering a granite bowl surrounding a large flat that is densely forested. This is likely why I call it "the bowl."
If true, and you have made your way into "The Bowl," then the N Mokelumne is directly to your East, and somewhere through the forest to your West, is the steep base of the granite ridge that makes up the Western Boundary of "The Bowl." Our way out of this dense forest is located to Southwest, where we will again find an obvious trail leading up and out of this rockbound bowl through a crack in its perimeter wall. That's the trail to Camp Irene.
But before you find the trail to Camp Irene, find your way to the N Mokelumne River. Here there are fine white sand beaches along the shore, softly carpeting the floor of the dense forest that marches right up to the river. This is one of the finest remote "campsites" in the Sierras that's not real far from a trailhead.
I strongly suggest anyone entering this section have expert backpacking, map reading, and cross-country route finding skills. The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route between the Summit City Creek and Camp Irene is difficult expert terrain.
Once you find the trail leading out of the Southwest side of the bowl, you will be relieved to see there is a well-trod trail bed, if not a fully ducked trail, the rest of the way to Camp Irene. Even when there are no ducks the trail bed should suffice to lead you to Camp Irene. The trail is actually burnished into sections of bare granite it crosses. A hundred and fifty years of even sparse traffic has left its mark on the rock.
From Camp Irene a faint maintained trail will bring you up to the crest of Mount Reba, which is the last obstacle that sits between Camp Irene and fresh food and a resupply package at Lake Alpine, the end of this trail section. We will pick up the resupply package we sent to our self at the Lake Alpine Lodge.
Once you have reached Camp Irene from the Summit City Creek, you have finished passing through the toughest part of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail. Congratulations!
You have also passed through the end of the granite section of this part of the trail. After you cross the North Mokelumne River and begin to climb up the Northeast flanks of the Mount Reba massif, the granitic terrain that you have crossed since Summit City Creek is gradually submerged by volcanic terrain as you climb higher on Mount Reba.
OK, now go check out the TYT on the trail guide!
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Below: Me, still looking for the trail out of the forested bowl along the Mokelumne River towards Camp Irene.

Resupply
Two days South out of the Carson Gap on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail will see us drop down the South side of Mount Reba to our first resupply point at the Lake Alpine lodge, located on Highway 104 on the West side of Lake Alpine.
Likewise, Pacific Crest Trail backpackers will generally hit Ebbetts Pass two days South out of the Carson Gap on the Pacific Crest Trail. Lake Alpine is a short 26 mile hitch hike to the West of Ebbetts Pass on Highway 4, where you can pick up your resupply package from Kim.
Bear Valley is three miles further West from the Lake Alpine Lodge on Highway 4.
(including Bear Valley and Arnold)
Resupply
Highway 4, Lake Alpine Lodge and Ebbetts Pass
The Pacific Crest trail crosses Ebbetts Pass on Highway 4. Lake Alpine, where the Tahoe to Yosemite hits Highway 4, sits about 26 miles to the West of Ebbetts Pass, also on Highway 4.
I always pick up my first resupply at the Lake Alpine Lodge, even if I am hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. This necessitates hitching a ride down down mountain from Ebbetts Pass for hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail. Hikers on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail hit Highway 4 at the East end of Lake Alpine, and will find it a pleasant 3/4 mile walk to the Lake Alpine Lodge.
After finding my secret camp on the East side of Lake Alpine and stashing your food and gear properly, you can take a leisurely walk along the scenic North Shore of Lake Alpine down to the Lake Alpine Lodge.
Highway 108, Saint Mary and Sonora Passes
The same basic resupply situation confronts backpackers hitting Highway 108 at the Sonora Pass as it did on Highway 4. Kennedy Meadows Pack Station is 8 miles West down the mountain from the Sonora Pass. I suggest hitching the 8 miles West, down to Kennedy Meadows to resupply. You also have the option of hitching 13 miles East to the Highways 108 and 395 junction, then hitching about 25 miles South on Highway 395 to the fine little town of Bridgeport. I don't recommend heading to Bridgeport for resupply.
Kennedy Meadows is the superior resupply option in every respect. But if you do hit Bridgeport to resupply, check out Rhino's Bar and Grill. Rhino's sports pool tables, a nice cafe with great food, and a bar. US Marines, random special forces, and other military personnel from Pickle Meadow mingle with locals, car campers, hunters, fishermen, and the occasional backpacker misguided enough to head to Bridgeport for resupply. Bridgeport also has a grocery store. Bridgeport is also the Gateway to Twin Lakes, a fine Eastern entry into Yosemite's Northern Backcountry.
Don't get me wrong, I like Bridgeport a lot, its fine residents, and especially the hot springs just South of town, but Kennedy Meadows is the Superior resupply option for backpackers crossing Highway 108.
The 395 Corridor
Personally, when I am in the 395 corridor near Highway 108, I always head North to the little town of Walker, which sits 14 miles North of the Highways 108 and 395 junction. Though it has few resources, I have friends there that have always made Walker a fine place to visit.
Lake Alpine, Bear Valley, and Arnold Resupply
Kennedy Meadows Pack Station and Resort Resupply
Full Resupply Discussion: Tahoe to Tuolumne Meadows |
Read more about your route options on the Pacific Crest Trail or the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail between the Carson Gap and Highway 4 on the Trail Guide Index, on the Carson Gap Trail Guide page, in the maps section, and on the miles and elevations pages.
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More Information
Check the maps, mileages and elevations, and the trail guide pages for information on each route's specifics.
The route options through the Northern Sierras are approached from the perspective of resupply on the Echo Lake Chalet Resupply page. Check this page out for resupply information and options as they pertain to both the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trail routes between Meeks Bay and Sonora Pass.
Also Check out the route discussion comparing the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trail routes on The Backpacker's Forum
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Maps
North of the Carson Gap
7.5 minute Topo hiking Map: Echo Summit and South Upper Truckee to Carson Pass
30 min Topo hiking Map: Echo Summit and South Upper Truckee to Carson Gap
Miles and Elevations
South of the Carson Gap
The Carson Pass Region Map
SOUTH PCT miles: Carson Pass to Ebbetts Pass
SOUTH TY miles: Carson Gap to Lake Alpine
Trail Guide Pages
North: Carson Gap South on TY: Trail to Woods Lake. South on the PCT: Carson Pass. |